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  1. mooreted's Avatar
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       #1  
    When I try to take landscapes and there is any shadow near me, I get haze and glare. Is there a way I can improve my landscapes when I have mixed light and shadow?

    https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi..._S6-LnbxmE&v=3

    https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...c01Fc-Qir8&v=3


    Sent from my easy chair using brainwaves.
  2. #2  
    Hi mooreted,

    Have you seen this thread? It has a lot of photography tips. Please check it out and see if it helps.

    If you have further questions afterwards, please let us know.
  3. azcruz's Avatar
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    #3  
    Quick answer... your aperture is too wide.
  4. mooreted's Avatar
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       #4  
    What I'm struggling with, I guess, is the other landscapes I took when I was standing in broad daylight look pretty good.

    From the thread, I get the idea that phones aren't that great at distances.

    I have played with an ISO of 800 and increasing the exposure time, and that seems to help. I guess I should pick better subjects and not stand in the shadows photographing subjects bathed in light.

    Just thought someone might have a trick up their sleeve.


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  5. mooreted's Avatar
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       #5  
    Quote Originally Posted by azcruz View Post
    Quick answer... your aperture is too wide.



    Yeah, I guess I'll just get closer to things from now on.





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  6. MikeLip's Avatar
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    #6  
    I can't see your pics for whatever reason, but I've been a photographer for a while and I can make a couple quick guesses;

    Stand in the shade. If you are in direct sunlight, sun falling on your lens can wash out a picture. Or hold your hand in a way as to keep sun off the lens. This is why a pro photographer ALWAYS uses a lens shade - they prevent lens flare which can appear as haze. Lens flare isn't always those neat multi-sided discs and streamers across a photo. It can simply muck up a picture as reduced contrast and a foggy effect.
    Distance shots will always be hazy. There is just a lot of crap in the air that can reduce contrast. Dust, pollen, humidity, air pollution. Some days are just a lot worse than others - sometimes it's nearly non-existent, sometimes it's obvious and the thing is you don't always realize it's there. Somehow your brain edits it out when you are just looking and you have to say "OK brain, show me what's REALLY there." Incidentally, that is always the biggest trick in photography - seeing what is there, and not what your brain wants you to see. Sometimes a light yellow filter can help boost contrast, and the color cast can be rebalanced in Photoshop or GIMP.
  7. mooreted's Avatar
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       #7  
    I didn't think of lens flare. I'll give that a try. Next tome I'll take my time and try to pay more attention to what is going on in the scene.

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  8. #8  
    In addition to what MikeLip said, check for fingerprints or smudges on the lens. While those of us with big SLR cameras are very careful to keep them off the lens, that's a different proposition with a phone, and it can increase the haziness, as well as making lens flare worse.
    - Rich


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  9. #9  
    ISO 800 is not optimal for use in bright sunlight. If your subject is facing the sun, you should use ISO 100.
    Muessig and mrcrusha829 like this.
  10. mrcrusha829's Avatar
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    #10  
    Definitely check to make sure the lens is clean... I wipe it before every pic I take. I know this was already mentioned but you would be surprised at how many pics get messed up because of this. Also if you have a case that is close to the lens will bounce light off of it giving weird effects.
  11. venu238's Avatar
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    #11  
    You might be using "closeup" scene in photo settings...check it out or reset your camera
  12. mooreted's Avatar
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       #12  
    Quote Originally Posted by Laura Knotek View Post
    ISO 800 is not optimal for use in bright sunlight. If your subject is facing the sun, you should use ISO 100.



    Thanks, I will try that.





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  13. mooreted's Avatar
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       #13  
    Quote Originally Posted by venu238 View Post
    You might be using "closeup" scene in photo settings...check it out or reset your camera



    On this outing I left it on the default settings.





    Sent from my easy-chair using brain waves
  14. #14  
    Quote Originally Posted by Laura Knotek View Post
    ISO 800 is not optimal for use in bright sunlight. If your subject is facing the sun, you should use ISO 100.
    Yeah... How in the world did I not notice that. Must not have read that line.
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  15. mooreted's Avatar
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       #15  
    Quote Originally Posted by hopmedic View Post
    Yeah... How in the world did I not notice that. Must not have read that line.



    I thought 800 would compensate for shadows, but it increases glare and makes grainy pics.





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  16. Joel S79's Avatar
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    #16  
    Quote Originally Posted by mooreted View Post
    I thought 800 would compensate for shadows, but it increases glare and makes grainy pics.





    Sent from my easy-chair using brain waves
    It increases the sensitivity of the... erm... sensor. So it's designed for low light, low ISOs get you the cleanest, clearest pictures, but need solid light. If you're outdoors, 100 should be fine unless it's really cloudy or something.

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  17. mooreted's Avatar
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       #17  
    Quote Originally Posted by Joel S79 View Post
    It increases the sensitivity of the... erm... sensor. So it's designed for low light, low ISOs get you the cleanest, clearest pictures, but need solid light. If you're outdoors, 100 should be fine unless it's really cloudy or something.

    Sent from... my office chair. :(



    I will try that this evening.

    I'm also in my office chair at the moment. :(





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  18. mooreted's Avatar
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       #18  
    Since the Amber update my camera is working great. Took awesome landscapes today.

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