Lumia 1020 after GDR3 Preview - No more yellow tinting post processing

dkp23

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So im sure people with the 1020 have noticed the post processing issues with pictures on the 1020.

Where when you take a picture, it looks great on screen and when you open to see it, you can clearly see the yellowish tint change and smoothing of the picture about half a second after you open it.

My opinion, the picture looks great prior to the post process, so i hoped nokia "fixed" it as much as possible. Pictures i thought reflected the color correctly and also very very detailed and sharp. Then after processing, not so much.

Anyway, i haven't taken a picture in awhile until yesterday so i took a few pictures and expecting to see the tinting after opening, i didnt see anymore. So i took a few more pictures and it looks like the tinting is gone, at least on my phone. Not sure if anybody experiencing same thing.

Before you would also see the picture smooth out, less sharp, while the yellow tinting is gone, the smoothing out is almost completely gone as well, at first i thought it was gone, but you really have to look close and focus to actually see the smoothing effect.

While not gone, very minimal at this point, so looks like or at least in my experience, gdr 3 preview "fixed" the yellow tintiing issue, but minimized the smoothing effect. odd because gdr3 is an MS update, not nokia. So who knows.

Maybe seeing things?

Thoughts?
 

PB_H

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take a picture inside during the day in low light ( no direct sun) with a scene with a lot of white in it...do you see yellow/green in the white areas of the photo ?
 

dkp23

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take a picture inside during the day in low light ( no direct sun) with a scene with a lot of white in it...do you see yellow/green in the white areas of the photo ?

The pictures i took were in my apartment at night and with limited lighting, i dont see any color changing, only slight smoothing.
 

PB_H

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No disrespect but posting a picture ( in my reply too) is worth a thousand words, we're talking about photos here
what I see is different what others see. "the pictures I took" ?

Take a picture with ambient natural light of a corner of your wall pointed at ceiling, not that it's interesting but
taking a photo in that light and with limited object tests and shows you the limits and the capabilities of a camera's
exposure, lens and WB features, set to auto.
 

dkp23

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IM not sure what posting a picture in my reply proves, this isn't about quality of the picture. There is no way for me to take a picture on amber and now on gdr3. This is simply noticing if the tint happens after you check the photo in procam which many people have noticed. The tinting and smoothing. On amber, didn't matter what setting or location, the picture tints after you open it up in procam, you can find many threads on it.

This post is saying, i dont see the tinting any more on GDR3, but i still see some smoothing and trying to get confirmation if people on gdr3 experiencing the same.

If this was a thread about "my pictures being better on gdr3", a picture showdown would be needed to confirm, but this thread isnt about picture quality, it is about the tinting issue during the post processing of the picture.
 

PB_H

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IM not sure what posting a picture in my reply proves, this isn't about quality of the picture. There is no way for me to take a picture on amber and now on gdr3. This is simply noticing if the tint happens after you check the photo in procam which many people have noticed. The tinting and smoothing. On amber, didn't matter what setting or location, the picture tints after you open it up in procam, you can find many threads on it.

This post is saying, i dont see the tinting any more on GDR3, but i still see some smoothing and trying to get confirmation if people on gdr3 experiencing the same.

If this was a thread about "my pictures being better on gdr3", a picture showdown would be needed to confirm, but this thread isnt about picture quality, it is about the tinting issue during the post processing of the picture.

I know that but the tint is on NOKIA Camera just like it is/was with Pro Cam.
Perhaps you don't see it, and perhaps you don't care but the point is I can't see what you see by your words alone.

You can also take a screen shot before you take a picture in live view /and a screen shot post processing.

I don't see "smoothing" ? (vague description at best, never seen that when it comes to photography ) but perhaps we
don't mean the same thing -I'm not even sure what that means -therein lies the issue.
When you are talking about a visual medium words are a poor substitution for show me. Good luck.
 
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Chazn

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No, the yellow tint issue is still present. Here's a picture of my dog sleeping at night. One before (a screenshot) and after processing.
Very low lit room with the only light source being my bed lamp.

Before:
wp_ss_20131030_0001.jpg

After:
WP_20131030_02_39_29_Pro.jpg
 

PB_H

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No, the yellow tint issue is still present. Here's a picture of my dog sleeping at night. One before (a screenshot) and after processing.
Very low lit room with the only light source being my bed lamp.

Before:
View attachment 48310

After:
View attachment 48311


I can fix most of those issues by adjusting WB and if lighting is a mixed source ie. florescent and incandescent
-even the most sophisticated WB set on auto in $1000 cameras have issues.
Some cameras you adjust auto WB and there you can move the scales with more or less blue or red, green or yellow.

"Problem" with Nokia Camera/Pro Cam is peeps* are lazy and set things to auto and don't take advantage of the manual adjustments...it would be nice if the Nokia Camera had a White Card pre set option that way you could use a piece of white paper and set WB to the scene.

* not saying you are, just making a generalization.

ps you should have taken a screen shot in "live view" so we could see what you saw before to took the picture and Saving...
 

blue1k

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Noticed another bug.

Take a photo in dimmer light inside and set ISO to 100 with flash. Photo comes out orange. WB has no effect

Take the same photo but leave ISO to auto with flash and photo is still a bit yellow but much more realistic. The pic info shows the ISO as 100!

I just hate how poor the photos of my daughter are turning out. Sure, I could use a longer exposure for static shots but it's not possible with moving subjects. My S3 and S4 took better low light portraits inside than this. :(
Most of my shots are portraits so I'm starting to leave my phone and use my SLR instead :(

On long exposure the night shots are amazing (see my pumpkin photo in photo thread) but with flash they suck even for close range shots. Nokia needs to address this.
 

iliramove

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If you read on most websites review of the Lumia 1020, its known that the shots taken indoors will give a pretty off exposure.

The issue is not for GDR3 to fix. Its for the next Nokia Black to correct in the firmware.

Software fix is one thing. Firmware fix is another.

Sent from my mobile Tapatalk
 

Blacklac

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It simply appears the processing is either faster or takes place during the "Saving" timeframe. I still get the off WB occasionally, but I dont see it happen before my eyes when I open a new picture. (FWIW, I have the Photo Preview off).
 

PB_H

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I would suggest that peeps find find a camera with no options, no manual overrides in the menu other than AUTO and maybe flash ON/OFF
PRO CAM (and it's follow up Nokia Cam) -"Pro" is a indication as what it's intent is for, not that you have to be a professional but learning
about a camera and settings is needed in order to benefit from it's software, & that takes time with trial and error.
Most don't know what to do when they are given the option of manually settting WB ( not auto ) shutter speed, ISO and how these
settings effect each other in a given scene, - find out what color (K) a flash gives out and then you'll know what WB setting
to set it to not to get an orange overcast.
 

blue1k

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I would suggest that peeps find find a camera with no options, no manual overrides in the menu other than AUTO and maybe flash ON/OFF
PRO CAM (and it's follow up Nokia Cam) -"Pro" is a indication as what it's intent is for, not that you have to be a professional but learning
about a camera and settings is needed in order to benefit from it's software, & that takes time with trial and error.
Most don't know what to do when they are given the option of manually settting WB ( not auto ) shutter speed, ISO and how these
settings effect each other in a given scene, - find out what color (K) a flash gives out and then you'll know what WB setting
to set it to not to get an orange overcast.

I'm not a newb-I'm well aware of how to use ISO, shutter speed etc. If you read my post I mentioned that changing wb does not change the result. It should but it doesn't. It seems to be a firmware bug of Amber that even the Pro Shot developer has mentioned that he sees under certain ISO . I have taken some amazing photos with device but I can say that even with proper settings the camera is not performing properly on many occasions.. That's the problem. :(
 
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buxz777

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can easly be cured by setting a low iso and faster shutter speed , the reason for the yellow from what I can see is the wrong settings in auto my 1020 uses 1/30 second for xenon shots most of the time and sometimes a high iso :-/

now this keeps the shutter open longer then it needs to be , xenon is uber quick much quicker then 1/30 second , set the shutter speed faster and keep the iso low

this will lead to much less orange shots , have ago yourself and notice the yellow disappear bit by bit as you increase the shutter speed , you will also notice the background get darker the faster you go but the focal point ie a persons face in portrait will be ok just less orange/yellow

I expect this to get fixed in an update soon

steve from aas wrote about it too although I think you can go even faster then he chooses to

Achieving Nokia 808-like Xenon shots on the Lumia 1020

try it :)
 

PB_H

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I don't see any orange when I set ISO to 100 with flash enabled and all the other settings on AUTO taken inside in very low light.
0.

Picture info: exposure compensation 0.0 -shutter speed 1/12 sec ( set to auto) -WB auto, - ISO 100 set.

I don't doubt what you see, but I don't get those orange issues.
 

blue1k

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I don't see any orange when I set ISO to 100 with flash enabled and all the other settings on AUTO taken inside in very low light.
0.

Picture info: exposure compensation 0.0 -shutter speed 1/12 sec ( set to auto) -WB auto, - ISO 100 set.

I don't doubt what you see, but I don't get those orange issues.

Hmm. Maybe it's my device. It's pretty bad. :( More testing needed
 

buxz777

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I don't see any orange when I set ISO to 100 with flash enabled and all the other settings on AUTO taken inside in very low light.
0.

Picture info: exposure compensation 0.0 -shutter speed 1/12 sec ( set to auto) -WB auto, - ISO 100 set.

I don't doubt what you see, but I don't get those orange issues.

in very low light you wont see it as much because the slow shutter speed for xenon pollutes the image with false light ie wall lights , light bulbs above , street lights etc so if your using xenon in very dark conditions then obviously there is minimal false light to pollute the image!!! hence why your not seeing the orange or yellow with xenon , use it in a room with false lighting and it will become orange/yellow its been discussed loads on many forums and this website too

this is when speeding up the shutter speed will get rid of orange/yellow cast to images
 

PB_H

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in very low light you wont see it as much because the slow shutter speed for xenon pollutes the image with false light ie wall lights , light bulbs above , street lights etc so if your using xenon in very dark conditions then obviously there is minimal false light to pollute the image!!! hence why your not seeing the orange or yellow with xenon , use it in a room with false lighting and it will become orange/yellow its been discussed loads on many forums and this website too

this is when speeding up the shutter speed will get rid of orange/yellow cast to images

I just photographed a lamp with florescent light mixed with closed venetian blinds in a, set at 100 ISO, with flash, 1/13 sec, no orange.
Do I need to try to recreate this ? because I don't see orange or dead people when shooting normally in that type of scenario.
 

PB_H

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in very low light you wont see it as much because the slow shutter speed for xenon pollutes the image with false light ie wall lights , light bulbs above , street lights etc so if your using xenon in very dark conditions then obviously there is minimal false light to pollute the image!!! hence why your not seeing the orange or yellow with xenon , use it in a room with false lighting and it will become orange/yellow its been discussed loads on many forums and this website too

this is when speeding up the shutter speed will get rid of orange/yellow cast to images

Here you said: can easily be cured by setting a low iso and faster shutter speed
so it's both a slow shutter speed and a fast shutter speed that you won't see orange in low light when set to 100 and using flash ?
:confused:
 

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