06-06-2016 08:46 AM
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tools
  1. Sonartech's Avatar
    Hey Sonartech. I have been trying to take apart my 1520. Unfortunately, I read the post that said to use a t3 torx but it ended up stripping the locking screw. I later read to use a t2 but now it is completely useless. Do you have any recommendations for removing this stripped screw without destroying my device. Thanks again.
    Depending on how bad it stripped, you might be able to use a 1.2mm flat head. The other option is to use a Dremel to carefully cut a slot on each side of the screw, then use a larger flat head to just unscrew it. Finally, if you have some super-fine dykes, you can use them to either grab on to the screw to turn it, or maybe to cut slots in either side of the screw for removal.

    Good luck!

    SonarTech
    01-19-2014 05:59 PM
  2. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    So the screw on the 1520 isn't a T3 size? (I realize that if it IS a T3 size, the T2 driver should be able to work with the screw, albeit loosely.)
    01-19-2014 06:08 PM
  3. Sonartech's Avatar
    It's officially labeled as a Torx+ Size M1.4x2.0. On my Whia drivers, a T2 fits best, but at this tiny size, some have reported T3's work better.

    image_windowsmania_pl.png

    SonarTech
    01-19-2014 09:01 PM
  4. isi mcf's Avatar
    Unless the full LCD assemblies drop under $100, I'll be selling my shell and any components, so keep an eye out in the seller section lol I was really looking forward to doing this to my 1520.
    01-22-2014 11:48 AM
  5. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    I was hoping that I could get away with a t3 bit myself, but it seems that the one that I have is too large for the screw. Now I get to wait on a different screwdriver set from Amazon with a t2 bit.

    This would be what I just ordered: Amico 7 in 1 Set Nonslip Red Black Handle Torx T2 T5 T6 Screwdriver Bits - Amazon.com

    This is the kit that ordered with a t3 bit in it: 29 in 1 Magnetic Slotted Philips Torx Screwdriver Set - Amazon.com (don't bother, thought the kit is very nice, IMO)
    01-22-2014 01:51 PM
  6. Sonartech's Avatar
    01-23-2014 01:30 AM
  7. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    Hah! I visited that store page and immediately thought to say to you: "Care to help fund some poor 1520 enthusiasts' dreams?! ;)"

    But seriously though.. Finding a toolset like that but very much "on the cheap" is rather tough!
    01-23-2014 06:06 AM
  8. soloist_huaxin's Avatar
    Hi Sonartech,

    Thanks a lot for this detailed guide! For someone that will get the flip cover with the phone(me in about 4-5 months), do you think it's easier for people to just put the 920 Qi Coil between the phone and the case, and connect the coil to the contact points? I mean, the flex between external and internal contact points for PMA doesn't have magic in there, so as long as we can short negative and trigger-negative somewhere we should be set? this way we don't have to open the phone and void warranty. what's your opinion on that?
    Benny Vallejo likes this.
    01-23-2014 12:37 PM
  9. Sonartech's Avatar
    ...do you think it's easier for people to just put the 920 Qi Coil between the phone and the case, and connect the coil to the contact points? I mean, the flex between external and internal contact points for PMA doesn't have magic in there, so as long as we can short negative and trigger-negative somewhere we should be set?
    You're absolutely correct - you could place the coil external to the phone and connect-the-dots (hehehe). Using this interface would be virtually undetectable should warranty service by required. The center dot is V+, and both dots on either side should be connected to GND.

    SonarTech
    01-23-2014 05:47 PM
  10. Sonartech's Avatar
    Yet another serving suggestion for those attempting this modification...

    Since I installed the original mod outlined in this thread, I've had more charger placement issues than I expected. The 1520 is heavy enough that it would tilt off the small Qi charging pads, moving it just out of wireless charging range. It was a bit of a silly balancing act trying to get it to maintain a link. As a result, I re-designed the modification to move the coil further up toward the center, and now the alignment process seems much simpler (and balanced). Here's what it looks like for those interested:

    v1-5full.jpg

    Here's a close-up of the critical area:

    v1-5close.jpg

    The pink dashed line shows the periphery of the 920 Qi charging coil PCB and where I moved it in relation to the PMA flex. I moved the top contact pad almost flush with the PMA flex connection to the main board. This places the charging coil almost dead-center inside the 1520. This also makes the 1520 much easier to balance at center on top of a charging coil. Having it sit "somewhere" in the lower half of the device was tedious. Having it centered seems more natural. Just don't place it too high, so that the PCB and the flex overlap...

    So far, it's sitting quite happily on top of my original Nokia charger. No changes to the wiring, so don't place too much stock in the extra scraped-off area visible in my pictures; I just recycled the original flex I used from my first modification.

    Keep Calm and Charge On.

    SonarTech
    01-24-2014 12:01 AM
  11. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    Sonartech: You are amazing. Thank you for contributing your findings for everyone!

    I'm happy to report that the little screwdriver kit with a t2 "bit" (it's more like a plug-in driver) works perfectly with my phone's screw. Now I just need to find a local retailer who carries 22 or 24 awg core bus cable.

    Would you also recommend one of those "helping hands" magnifying lenses that you can buy at RadioShack and the like to help with the scraping of the flex and subsequent soldering?
    01-24-2014 08:31 PM
  12. Sonartech's Avatar
    Thanks for the kind words. The 'helping hands' are probably not a bad idea, given the nature of this modification. There are two fairly tedious bits associated with this modification:

    1. Scraping the mask off the Mylar flex without hacking into (or through) the actual copper trace. Gentle hands are required, and you only have 1 PMA flex, so you have to get this part right, or you'll have to repair the damage you did to the flex (yuk!). Trying to scrape off the solder mask and shielding on the flex should definitely be done under decent light and good magnification - with a healthy amount of patience.
    2. Soldering the bus wire to the 920 Qi coil PCB. The OEM 920 Qi coil comes with gold contact plates pre-soldered to the PCB. These Ɓitches move around all over the place the instant they get hot, so unless you're holding them down to the PCB (along with the bus wire you're trying to solder in top of them), chances are pretty good these contact plates will %@#$ you somehow. Depending on your skill and your patience, you might just want to remove the gold plates entirely and solder to the 4 pads underneath instead. Here's what it looks like:


    withplates.jpg
    Figure 1: Close-up of PITA gold contact plates. Enlarged to show texture...

    withoutplates.jpg
    Figure 2: A crappy close-up showing the 4 pads hiding under the gold plates.

    There's no real benefit to having the gold plates in place. Technically, they just add another layer of thickness (and frustration), so I'd probably recommend they be de-soldered and removed prior to attempting to solder the bus wire to the pads. You don't need to contact all 4 pads with the bus wire, either - two or three is fine, so long as you end up with a nice shiny, low-profile and physically secure connection. Stay at or under 650F on these pads, and dwell no longer than about 5 seconds per pad or you risk lifting the trace off the PCB. Be sure to pre-strip and tin your bus wire, too, so all you have to do is drop it in place and heat the joint to make the connection.

    Again, good luck!

    SonarTech
    MDK22 likes this.
    01-24-2014 11:52 PM
  13. tanithis's Avatar
    Thinking about removing the strip from my 820 shell and adding it to a 1520 case. I don't care that it is in an external case as I need a case anyway. The only thing that bothers me about the PMA, other than getting another charging pad, is that I can only seem to find one case and it is fat and black. If anyone has done this with a case instead of internal, please let me know how it turned out.
    01-26-2014 05:10 PM
  14. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    The only disassembly video for the 1520 that I could find is, in a word, useless. It requires the use of a frame that isn't commercially available (as far as I know). I attempted to use a thin plastic tool to gently remove the unibody from the case without luck. It felt too much like I would bend, break or at least overly compress the external material of the unibody too much. I knew that this would not be a simple task but when step 1 is this much trouble, I find myself wanting to go through with it a lot less. :(
    02-01-2014 09:20 AM
  15. Citizen X's Avatar
    Coil is available from eTrade Supply: Nokia Lumia 920 Wireless Charging Coil
    Has anyone actually ordered this part from eTrade Supply? I went by just to check out price and shipping for a US address and the total came to $43.91 for economy shipping. That's a bit steep considering the other odds and ends I would need to pick up to do this project. Luckily I already own a soldering iron and solder.
    02-03-2014 01:55 PM
  16. phirefly's Avatar
    I picked up my 920 coil on Amazon for $22.12 from bestmatch. Despite the long estimated ship time it came in about a week and looks new. I was waiting on my t3 which I got today to do this mod.
    Citizen X likes this.
    02-03-2014 02:31 PM
  17. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    I picked up my 920 coil on Amazon for $22.12 from bestmatch. Despite the long estimated ship time it came in about a week and looks new. I was waiting on my t3 which I got today to do this mod.
    Don't be too surprised if the t3 torx bit doesn't work for the phone. I had to resort to t2 bit myself.
    02-03-2014 03:14 PM
  18. Sonartech's Avatar
    The only disassembly video for the 1520 that I could find is, in a word, useless. It requires the use of a frame that isn't commercially available (as far as I know). I attempted to use a thin plastic tool to gently remove the unibody from the case without luck. It felt too much like I would bend, break or at least overly compress the external material of the unibody too much. I knew that this would not be a simple task but when step 1 is this much trouble, I find myself wanting to go through with it a lot less. :(
    Did you get it figured out? If not, I can put together a step-by-step guide for disassembly.

    SonarTech
    02-03-2014 10:19 PM
  19. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    Did you get it figured out? If not, I can put together a step-by-step guide for disassembly.

    SonarTech
    Unfortunately, no. I gave up and posted out of frustration since I did slightly dent the unibody in my attempt to remove the shell.

    I would appreciate a guide if you have the time to write it up! :)
    02-04-2014 06:32 AM
  20. soloist_huaxin's Avatar
    Has anyone actually ordered this part from eTrade Supply? I went by just to check out price and shipping for a US address and the total came to $43.91 for economy shipping. That's a bit steep considering the other odds and ends I would need to pick up to do this project. Luckily I already own a soldering iron and solder.
    I ordered my 920 replacement screen from them a while back after getting scammed by some ebay seller. Yeah their shipping cost is between insane and ultra-insane, but the quality of parts is every bit as advertised. If you can handle the cash turnaround I'd suggest order a bunch and resell on ebay.
    Citizen X likes this.
    02-04-2014 11:49 AM
  21. NoRomBasic's Avatar
    I picked up my 920 coil on Amazon for $22.12 from bestmatch. Despite the long estimated ship time it came in about a week and looks new. I was waiting on my t3 which I got today to do this mod.
    I got my 920 Coil today from iPart Inc on Amazon for $22.88 delivered. Unfortunately they seem to be out of stock now.

    Shame too as they were nice enough to include both a T2 and T3 torx screwdriver as well as a plastic case opening tool. That was a pleasant surprise.

    Now all I need to do is work up the gumption to make the mod.

    Amazon.com: Wireless Charging Charger Coil Flex Cable Ribbon Repair For Nokia Lumia 920: Cell Phones & Accessories
    02-04-2014 03:48 PM
  22. Citizen X's Avatar
    I ordered my 920 replacement screen from them a while back after getting scammed by some ebay seller. Yeah their shipping cost is between insane and ultra-insane, but the quality of parts is every bit as advertised. If you can handle the cash turnaround I'd suggest order a bunch and resell on ebay.
    Thanks. I figured it was something like that. I contemplated ordering a few to modify other phones but I really needed just one first to see how it goes.

    Thanks to everyone for posting about your sources. I'm still working up the nerve to do this mod on such a beautiful phone!
    02-04-2014 04:12 PM
  23. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    Qi Wireless Charging Receiver Coil Tag Repair Free Tools Fix Set for Lumia 920 | eBay

    That's the eBay seller that I bought my Qi Charger from. Shipping was a bit slow but the overall cost made up for it. :)
    02-04-2014 04:23 PM
  24. Sonartech's Avatar
    Nokia Lumia 1520 Disassembly Instructions

    1. Read all of these instructions first, before you actually start the work and make sure you understand what they mean entirely.
    2. Remove SIM Tray.
    3. Remove micro-SD Card Tray.
    4. Remove White Sticker with Style 2A flat-head tweezers (or other very fine-tipped tweezers). Try to preserve the label integrity - slow and patient removal.
    5. Remove tiny screw using Torx T2 driver.
    6. Separate the case from the display. Refer to the pictures below for detail. Avoid pressing the Power Button during this process.
      1. Using a Thin Flat Tool (Style 2A Flat Tweezers, Nokia Guitar Pick Tool, Fingernail) pick one side and gently insert between the plastic edge of the case and the rubber gasket around the display. Take care not to smoosh the rubber gasket too much, and definitely don't use something that will tear or cut into the gasket.
      2. Release the clips by pushing down on the plastic and gently work your way around the entire side. Work your way to the top corner, but do not do this for the bottom corners. Watch out for the power button! If you accidentally hit it and the phone boots, let it finish booting then properly shut it down and continue.
      3. Once both side and the top clips are free, gently pull the display up and away from the bottom part of the case to release the bottom clips.



    1.jpg

    2.jpg

    3.jpg

    4.jpg


    1. The shell disassembly process is complete. The re-assembly process is just the reverse of this:
      1. Groom the rubber seal to make sure it is flush with the body of the display and that there are no egregious nicks or stretches in the seal. Fair it out as best you can if needed.
      2. Verify that there is no debris or crud left in the shell before re-assembly. Check the side buttons to make sure the button fairings are still seated.
      3. Slide the bottom part of the 1520 display into the polycarb shell bottom at an angle, allowing those clips to engage.
      4. Grow some ballz.
      5. Violently and viciously snap the absolute christ... Wait, let me re-phrase that. Gently start from the bottom and snap the display back into the polycarb shell, working your way to the top. Never mind the disgusting sounds it might make. Grow some ballz already! Snap, Snap, SNAP!!
      6. Once the display is reseated into the body, check only the Volume Up, Volume Down and Camera buttons for proper tactile response, meaning you got the case centered into the shell properly. DON'T push the power button yet (or the phone will boot, and you'll need to shut it down anyway after re-inserting your SIM).
      7. Replace the Torx T2 screw. WARNING: DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! It is extremely easy to strip-out this tiny screw, and you don't have a replacement!
      8. Re-apply the label, if you still have it in one piece.
      9. Re-install your SIM Tray and micro-SD Tray.
      10. Power-on the device and test your buttons one last time. Also test camera flash, and you're done!



    Hope that gets you going in the right direction. We've taken apart about 20 of these things without damaging the display, gasket or polycarb body. The only other recommendation I have is to be #@!$ sure you're done inside the device before closing it up. Repeated opening & closing will loosen things up and will risk leaving ugly dents in the shell around the gasket. Take pictures of your work before you close it up so you have something to reference if you feel that burning desire to to re-open your device to have another look at things...

    Good Luck!

    SonarTech
    Last edited by Sonartech; 02-05-2014 at 11:30 PM.
    02-05-2014 01:10 AM
  25. GrayW0lf's Avatar
    Once again, Sonartech, you are a freaking awesome person for taking the time to provide such detailed instructions for our use. I actually did ding the rubber around the unibody a little bit during my failed/aborted attempt to remove my phone. When I do remove it, I'll check to see if I can smooth it back out. With any luck, it's just pressed down too much/slightly weakened and not torn. Otherwise, I will just have to keep a close eye on that section of the phone going forward.

    THANK YOU for putting the stern warning at the beginning of your instructions, as well - may that warning help others to avoid damaging their unibody's rubber surround as I did

    PS - I also wasn't so careful with the IMEI sticker.. but I wasn't intending to even try to return or otherwise get warranty support, so I would hope that the sticker isn't critical for me otherwise.
    Last edited by GrayW0lf; 02-05-2014 at 12:08 PM.
    02-05-2014 10:47 AM
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