theeboredone
New member
Whatever it is, I don't plan on buying the 920 until this "software" update comes out from Nokia. Then I will consider it. It's either that or wait for the next gen of WPs.
I find the pictures taken by that individual to be by far the crappiest I have ever seen.
Did he use macro mode?
Thank you for that post. I thought it might be due to the shutter staying open too long, but I don't have anywhere near the expertise to explain it.
You mean in day light ? I can't be 100% certain, but that would cause the image to be over exposed because of the shutter staying open for longer than necessary.
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I thought you guys would like this:
Click to view quoted image
from a kind new owner here: Nokia Lumia 920 PureView Thread - page 19
WARNING TECHNICAL INFO BELOW IF YOU?RE EASILY BORED PLEASE ADVERT YOUR EYES!
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The problem is I haven't seen any photos that are overexposed. So.. If you are at f2.0 (wide open) and letting in all the light you can, then increasing shutter speed is going to underexpose the shot.
Thats the problem I don't think the 920 is shooting all the way open or even close to it at day, its probably shooting at something like f11 to compensate for the incorrect shutter speed which is a result of faulty coding. So for example the 920 is likely shooting during a sunny day outside at something like f22 1/30 ISO100 which is completely wrong and probably the result of the blur that we've been seeing, what it should be shooting at in that situation is something like f5.6 1/160 ISO100. Thats just my guess though, I'd have to run some tests to be certain and sadly I don't have my 920 yet
Working with Narrow Depth of Field
All of the above problems only cause a fraction of the trouble people have when shooting for the first time with a wide aperture prime lens. At least 90% of the first-timer problems shooting at wide aperture have to do with controlling the very narrow depth of field (the area of the image in sharp focus). How narrow? An 85mm lens shot at f/1.4 on a full frame camera focused on an object 6 feet (72 inches) away has a depth of field just under 2 inches. Anything closer than 71 inches away is out of focus. Anything further away than 73 inches is out of focus.
I literally have a conversation once a week that goes “this lens is really soft, look at this image!”.
“Nope, it’s really sharp, look at those eyelashes. Its just that her nose and her ears are out of the field of focus. Only her eye is in the plane of focus.”
In order to use a wide aperture lens properly, the photographer must have a good grasp of what the depth of field is with the lens (s)he is using, and at the distance (s)he is shooting. There are a number of good online depth-of-field calculators and several iPhone and Droid apps that provide a calculator you can carry with you. If you want and in-depth discussion on depth of field, I wrote an entire article on it here.
But a few practical rules should help in most situations:
For a given lens and aperture, depth of field is greater the further the subject is from the lens. The depth of field of the 85 f/1.4 I mentioned earlier was 2 inches when focused 6 feet away, but it’s 4 inches when focused 12 feet away, and 2 feet focused 30 feet away.
Stopping down increases depth of field some, but not that much at these wider apertures. For instance, stopping down the lens above from f/1.4 to f/2.2 at 12 feet increases the depth of field from 4 to 6 inches.
Wider focal length lenses focused at the same distance in front of the camera have a much greater depth of field. For example, a 35mm f/1.4 on a full frame camera has a depth of field of 9 inches when focused 6 feet away, a 3 foot depth of field when focused 12 feet away, and a 21 foot depth of field when focused 30 feet away.
The narrow depth of field makes focusing difficult, but, more importantly, the slightest bit of front or back focus can put the image entirely out of focus. Since every lens focuses slightly differently on every camera, I don’t recommend shooting a wide aperture lens unless your camera has autofocus microadjustment. Without it, getting perfect focus at such a narrow depth of field is a bit of a crap shoot. That also means, obviously, you need to actually use that feature and tune your camera and lens to focus optimally.
I agree with Vlad. The OIS should decrease blur in all shooting situations, including well-lit shots. Higher shutter speeds reduce blur even more. What we're seeing is not blur, but rather a general decrease in sharpness. The most likely culprit is that the noise reduction part of the picture processing is too aggressively applied for lower ISO numbers. Also, that f2.0 fixed aperture is great for low-light, but not as good for well-lit shots. A wide aperture will tend to introduce some softness to the shot anyway. A narrow aperture, like f11 or higher, will tend to result in sharper pictures. So it could be the combination of a fixed wide aperture and aggressive noise reduction.What I think might be happening is their jpeg processing is tuned for low light, but it doesn't switch to "day light" when it needs to, so it keeps applying that same aggressive noise reduction, when it doesn't need to, and that is why we loose sharpness.
Personally I think the HTC 8X or S might be more there style.Trying to find a phone for my old folks and the 920 seems nice.
They tried my HP Pre3 so are used to webOS and hence thought Android to be a bit cumbersome. Do you reckon a WP is the way to go, perhaps the 920 is overkill for them though?
Thats the problem I don't think the 920 is shooting all the way open or even close to it at day, its probably shooting at something like f11 to compensate for the incorrect shutter speed which is a result of faulty coding. So for example the 920 is likely shooting during a sunny day outside at something like f22 1/30 ISO100 which is completely wrong and probably the result of the blur that we've been seeing, what it should be shooting at in that situation is something like f5.6 1/160 ISO100. Thats just my guess though, I'd have to run some tests to be certain and sadly I don't have my 920 yet
Cole,
The lense is fixed at f2. I've checked out a few photos that have retained all the exif data and it seems they showed reasonable iso settings and shutter speed for the situation. There is a software fix coming soon so hopefully we'll see some significant improvements. Just no reason at all for the daytime shots to look as bad as some are.. The photos out of my 800 with a smudged lense look better. Could be that some of the shots are purposely being taken bad, like focusing somewhere other than the main object in the photo. Just have to wait and see when the phone comes