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01-21-2016 07:36 AM
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  1. bo_woods's Avatar
    The LCD is too fragile to make any promises about it making it through the process. Too many times I have had a perfectly fine looking LCD end up being broken after the rigidity of the glue and glass stop holding it tightly together.
    Have you done glass digitizer only repairs on the Lumia icon/930 or 830?? And if not do you do full assembly repairs on those?
    05-13-2015 09:16 PM
  2. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    Through the mail, I would only offer a full assembly repair. People get a bad reputation quickly when they promise things beyond their control. That would apply to any phone.
    05-14-2015 12:37 PM
  3. bo_woods's Avatar
    Through the mail, I would only offer a full assembly repair. People get a bad reputation quickly when they promise things beyond their control. That would apply to any phone.
    Have you seen my pm?
    05-14-2015 01:06 PM
  4. avchdman55's Avatar
    i just did 2 phones. it was easier than i thought. you want to go under the digitizer with the glass still on it. this provides some strength as ScrubbyXD mentioned earlier. the glue on that layer is super easy to clean, not like the glue between the glass and digitizer. I also did this with everything still in the frame.

    first one, got the wire between the glass/digitizer and lcd and came out one piece. lcd worked great, but had a tiny yellow spot. I figured my temps were off, so I used a better quality IR laser to compare,and it turned out my cheap IR gun was giving off wrong readings. I was applying more heat than I thought I was.

    so this tiny tiny yellow spot is really irritating. i wanted to verify it was from the polarizing film. i peeled it off(came off easy), and moved it around on where the yellow spot was. yup, it looked perfect. so now I will get some polarizers and apply it to the screen and it will be perfect.

    second phone. used the good IR gun to track my temps. i was very careful and it came off one piece again in about 10 minutes. perfect lcd.
    Last edited by avchdman55; 05-14-2015 at 11:29 PM.
    05-14-2015 06:07 PM
  5. LPhone2's Avatar
    How you glued the new glass/digitizer unit to the lcd?
    What glue did you use? LOCA? UV or not UV?
    05-22-2015 01:41 AM
  6. xpmymob's Avatar
    Wow. Even I would be interested in knowing how you managed to fix the Digitizer to the LCD. I have a separate thread which I had started in this regard. Let me take a couple of pics in a while and load them to show where I am at. I have managed to separate the digitizer but do not know how to stick the new digitizer to the LCD. Any video / pictures with step by step instructions that you could provide?
    05-22-2015 11:36 PM
  7. xpmymob's Avatar
    lumia_1520_2.jpg

    Here is how my Lumia 1520 looks right now without the digitizer. Any thoughts on how to fix it?
    05-23-2015 04:39 AM
  8. avchdman55's Avatar
    first, you need to change the polarizer. use a thin plastic pry tool to begin to lift the polarizer at a corner, then lift it with little force, and with the plastic pry tool keep sliding it from side to side while you lift to reduce the amount of pull force you are exerting so the top layer of the lcd doesn't pull off.

    you might need a polarizer roller to apply the polarizer so it goes on properly and to prevent little air bubbles under it.

    now to apply the digitizer, you need LOCA glue and a UV light source(keep the light away from your eyes). LOCA is a clear adhesive that cures with UV light. the simple explanation is, you put LOCA glue on the lcd, and lower the digitizer on it. you need to make sure its lined up properly, then you put the lcd and digitizer under UV light so the glue can cure. Its one thing to explain it, its another thing to execute it, and execute it properly. you have to ensure no bubbles are formed under the digitizer before you cure it. the good thing about LOCA is that if you mess up, you can just lift the digitizer, clean it all up, and try again, because the glue doesn't harden without being exposed to UV light.

    I would advise removing the LCD from the frame when applying the LOCA. if you don't, things could get messy, and you don't want the glue to go all over the electronic components, earpiece and proximity sensor openings and clog them. its just cleaner to do it with lcd off, but still possible with it in, if you use the right amount of glue.

    you can go on youtube to watch how polarizers and LOCA are applied. there are a ton of videos.

    im still waiting on my polarizers and digitizers so I will update once I get them,and let you know if they work, and which ones I purchased, and my experience installing them on these phones.
    Last edited by avchdman55; 05-23-2015 at 09:49 AM.
    xpmymob and vivilxw like this.
    05-23-2015 07:35 AM
  9. Taroot's Avatar
    Alysia Holland , is Digitizer is attached with glass? When you remove glass, do digitizer came out with glass or it is still attached to lcd. I want to remove glass only.
    06-11-2015 01:55 AM
  10. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    Alysia Holland , is Digitizer is attached with glass? When you remove glass, do digitizer came out with glass or it is still attached to lcd. I want to remove glass only.
    The glass and digitizer are bonded and are removed as a unit from the LCD. There is not a glass only repair for this phone.

    Do people sell just the glass? yes! why? They know people will buy it without doing the research. Then return for the glass/digitizer assembly.
    06-11-2015 03:39 AM
  11. avchdman55's Avatar
    The glass and digitizer are bonded and are removed as a unit from the LCD. There is not a glass only repair for this phone.

    Do people sell just the glass? yes! why? They know people will buy it without doing the research. Then return for the glass/digitizer assembly.
    I've done 5 of these phones so far, and I've attempted one glass only repair which went successfully, although I don't recommend it, and i'd rather pay the extra $5-$10 and get the digitizer and glass as a unit. the glue between the glass and digitizer is just nasty and a PITA to clean. the extra few bucks are well worth it.

    oh and thanks for recommending that supplier of digitizers. they work perfectly.
    06-16-2015 05:51 PM
  12. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    How high did you have to get the temperature to get it to even budge?

    Even if it takes more patience, time, and skill than most people have, I'm wrong. Turns out you can R&R the digitizer.

    Oh, what tape are you using to secure the LCD, Glass, and digitizer to the frame? I'm not entirely happy with the 3M double sided I've been using and am looking for something better.
    06-16-2015 06:11 PM
  13. avchdman55's Avatar
    around 100 degrees C, and I had to go real slow, but I had taken the whole lcd+digitizer+glass out one piece from the frame first. i used a heat gun, not an lcd separator. i think spot heating really helped here.

    i had to be careful not to break anything,so it was a huge risk but i eventually did it. started from the back with my pry tool on the two little openings at the bottom. lifted the copper pieces up a bit, then with thin hard plastic, i just started moving them around to break up the adhesive. worked my way around the frame being very careful not too lift the lcd too much, and eventually got it all out.

    about putting it back together on the frame, i left the copper strips the way they were on the back, and i laid a few more strips of the 3M tape on the metal backing. i heated them up until they looked shiny and sticky. the tape i used for the border was the precut stuff for this phone i got from ebay for a few bucks. honestly, not much of a difference from the 3M rolls, but i heated it a little as well. everything seems to have bonded well, but i am personally looking for an alternative adhesive that's much stronger as well. i will be ordering different ones and testing them out. ill let you know if i find something good.

    I've also done a 1320. if you thought the 1520 was hard...
    Last edited by avchdman55; 06-16-2015 at 10:22 PM.
    06-16-2015 10:06 PM
  14. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    oh wow, that is the point the polarizer starts cooking/fading, you really cut it close if the lcd was still on.

    Don't try this at home kids! <--- Older americans will get this reference.
    avchdman55 likes this.
    06-17-2015 09:42 AM
  15. theefman's Avatar
    I'm looking into getting my screen replaced because of ghost taps launching cortana, back button, etc. What would I need to replace to fix this, the whole assembly I presume? I already contacted Palco and they can do the fix but they only have ATT branded screens and I have an unbranded 1520.3 and while its trivial I would rather not have an ATT logo on my phone. Thanks.
    06-18-2015 10:10 AM
  16. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    I'm looking into getting my screen replaced because of ghost taps launching cortana, back button, etc. What would I need to replace to fix this, the whole assembly I presume? I already contacted Palco and they can do the fix but they only have ATT branded screens and I have an unbranded 1520.3 and while its trivial I would rather not have an ATT logo on my phone. Thanks.
    This is as good a place to go over this as any so lets begin.

    OEM is a term from the automotive world meaning Original Equipment Manufacturer. In these cases any regular joe can find out who made a car's part and verify that the manufacturer of thier replacement part and the original are one and the same. However in the electronics world components are bought from the cheapest supplier on a specification. That specification is not publicly available. This means OEM has no actual meaning in the case of your phone. It is and always was a non-binding marketing term with no legal or ethical requirement.

    So lets use the word "genuine" for clarity's sake and have that mean a part that actually came from Nokia (and thus meeting their specifications) for the purpose of reconditioning or repairing a Nokia phone by a Nokia trained technician. In the US those genuine screens are AT&T branded and we (those who have access) do NOT have access to screens intended for foreign markets.

    So to forgo the AT&T logo you have to enter the wild west of referbs and knockoffs. And there I have no good information for you. Every knockoff/referb I have tried has had an issue. Be it immediate or eventual something comes up. The biggest hurdle you face is making sure the chip on the digitizer is made by Synaptics. Anything else will be incompatible with cyan and denim. From there nothing is controllable, throw the dice and let us know how it came out. I can say I have been disappointed by etrade supply, the cool cube, and flashtech (who has a myriad of alias on ebay) so far.
    Laura Knotek and gordonfink like this.
    06-18-2015 01:04 PM
  17. gordonfink's Avatar
    Scrubby - is it your experience with etrade that OEM is not represented correctly? They borrow the automotive definition on their website.

    I do know that for accessories, like OtterBoxes and LifeProof cases, OEM means fake and unlicensed, and homeland security may visit you if you import them.
    06-18-2015 01:20 PM
  18. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    There is not a smiley available to represent the one I am wearing. They can claim OEM but not Original or Authentic. OEM is not legally binding. You will notice etrade's (and most others) screens are shippped either without a Nokia logo or with black tape concealing it. This is enough to get past customs visual examination standards. Without the black bar, yes they could run into trouble.

    etrade's screen seems to be at best a referb, and the tape they use doesn't always hold the screen down....but it is a Synaptics digitizer.
    gordonfink likes this.
    06-18-2015 05:04 PM
  19. theefman's Avatar
    This is as good a place to go over this as any so lets begin.

    OEM is a term from the automotive world meaning Original Equipment Manufacturer. In these cases any regular joe can find out who made a car's part and verify that the manufacturer of thier replacement part and the original are one and the same. However in the electronics world components are bought from the cheapest supplier on a specification. That specification is not publicly available. This means OEM has no actual meaning in the case of your phone. It is and always was a non-binding marketing term with no legal or ethical requirement.

    So lets use the word "genuine" for clarity's sake and have that mean a part that actually came from Nokia (and thus meeting their specifications) for the purpose of reconditioning or repairing a Nokia phone by a Nokia trained technician. In the US those genuine screens are AT&T branded and we (those who have access) do NOT have access to screens intended for foreign markets.

    So to forgo the AT&T logo you have to enter the wild west of referbs and knockoffs. And there I have no good information for you. Every knockoff/referb I have tried has had an issue. Be it immediate or eventual something comes up. The biggest hurdle you face is making sure the chip on the digitizer is made by Synaptics. Anything else will be incompatible with cyan and denim. From there nothing is controllable, throw the dice and let us know how it came out. I can say I have been disappointed by etrade supply, the cool cube, and flashtech (who has a myriad of alias on ebay) so far.
    Thanks for the detailed reply. The way things are going I will most likely get the repair done with Palco. Only other question is, since I'm on a 1520.3, would you know if there is anything about the ATT screen that would remove Qi charging, which is the big differentiator between the two? Thanks.
    06-19-2015 04:17 PM
  20. ScrubbyXD's Avatar
    The only difference is cosmetic (the AT&T logo).
    Attached Thumbnails wp_20150619_001.jpg  
    06-19-2015 10:25 PM
  21. theefman's Avatar
    The only difference is cosmetic (the AT&T logo).

    Thanks for your help.
    06-20-2015 07:54 PM
  22. Schwifty's Avatar
    *revives old thread*
    Could you say where can one get a good screen for 1520 ?
    01-21-2016 07:36 AM
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