Lumia 928 Blurry Photos

mooreted

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Ok, I can't see the pictures because here at work they block SkyDrive. But based on what others have said, and your statement that you've not really used a camera before, let me offer some advice.

First, the lower the light, the longer the exposure, all other things being kept the same. This means that the sensor is gathering light for a longer period of time, and during that time period, motion will result in blur. How noticeable that blur is depends on a few things, but mostly the focal length and the amount of motion. This means that the more zoomed in you are, the more noticeable the motion blur will be. What all this adds up to is that while holding still while taking any picture is important, in lower light it becomes far more so.

While the camera on the 928 has OIS - Optical Image Stabilization - it can't account for all motion. The way OIS works in most modern cameras is that the lens (or in some cases the sensor) is stabilized by a gyro, and moves in response to movement of the camera body/lens. So if I'm holding my camera with OIS (shown below), and I move to the left slightly, the lenses will adjust to the right, to keep the image that is projected onto the sensor stable.

View attachment 47217

The motion that can be compensated for by the gyros is small, so even using a $2500 (retail) lens, I have to hold very still while shooting. Likewise, you need to keep very still with the 928, while shooting in low light, because it can't compensate for much movement, either. The OIS is not geared so much as to compensate for body movement as it is to compensate for the very minor movements of muscle twitching and even the pulse caused by the beat of your heart. Yes, a heartbeat can cause motion blur, and a good photographer will time the shutter-squeeze between heartbeats if he can in the situation.

The OIS in the 928 is a bit different than what I have in my high-dollar lens. In the 928, instead of having gyros to compensate for movement by moving lenses, the entire camera assembly is mounted on very small springs. So my guess is that the 928 can compensate for even less motion than my big lens, but hey, you can't fit all that junk into a phone, now can you? Still, the principle is the same - if the phone camera moves to the left a bit, the mass of the camera/sensor assembly causes the springs to flex a bit to the right, thereby keeping the image projected to the sensor lined up.

So here's a question to ask yourself the next time you're trying to take a low-light image: Just how much can those tiny springs flex to keep the image lined up on the sensor?

Does this help? Oh - and if you would post your images to the forum instead or in addition to SkyDrive, more people will be able to see them. :wink:

Wow, nice camera.

I have been called back to work, I will read through this and maybe run around my back yard tonight and see if I can improve things.

I appreciate you guys trying to help a frustrated noob out.
 

montsa007

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Wow, nice camera.

I have been called back to work, I will read through this and maybe run around my back yard tonight and see if I can improve things.

I appreciate you guys trying to help a frustrated noob out.

Everybody was a noob back in a day ;), the one who isn't held it for a few seconds longer.
Am sure you'll snap better photos now ;)
 

N_LaRUE

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Wow, nice camera.

I have been called back to work, I will read through this and maybe run around my back yard tonight and see if I can improve things.

I appreciate you guys trying to help a frustrated noob out.

I finally saw the pictures. I have the same issue as others when I was at work. I didn't realise they were at a concert.

I've had the same effect as you. Issue is you're in the dark but the concert stage is a bright light. These are not the easiest pictures to take.

You need a muck with the shutter speed and other settings to get it take the photos you want. My suggestion would be to try taking pictures in a similar environment, like a dark room with a bright light at the other end or something like that. Once you get a clear picture of the light you'll have the settings you need to take the picture in the future. Practice is the only way to get it how you want it.

Maybe hopmedic has some suggestions for this type of environment. Other suggestion to try taking a video and then edit the video to get the pictures.

Good luck!
 

hopmedic

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I finally saw the pictures. I have the same issue as others when I was at work. I didn't realise they were at a concert.

I've had the same effect as you. Issue is you're in the dark but the concert stage is a bright light. These are not the easiest pictures to take.

You need a muck with the shutter speed and other settings to get it take the photos you want. My suggestion would be to try taking pictures in a similar environment, like a dark room with a bright light at the other end or something like that. Once you get a clear picture of the light you'll have the settings you need to take the picture in the future. Practice is the only way to get it how you want it.

Maybe hopmedic has some suggestions for this type of environment. Other suggestion to try taking a video and then edit the video to get the pictures.

Good luck!

Having still not seen the images, just going by your description of them, I'd say that you need to "make" the camera expose for the part of the scene that you want to have in focus and properly exposed. If it's a bright stage and dark surroundings, you could either go into the manual mode and adjust exposure with either shutter speed or ISO to the part of the scene you want properly exposed. Good thing about pics on a phone is you'll see the result of these settings live, so you won't be guessing. Another way, if you wish to stay in Auto, would be to zoom in so that all you have in the scene is the part you want properly exposed. Doing this, the camera will expose for what is there - the bright stage. There's always the HDR Photo Cam (I think that's the name) app, but with a moving scene this won't work. Great for stills - like a sunrise, sunset, or other static scenes where there is a wide range of light levels in the scene. But with a dynamic scene like a concert, you'll have a hard time getting the multiple images to line up, and get some pretty weird effects if it works. On the other hand, sometimes those weird effects can create a really interesting image..... :wink:
 

mooreted

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From what you guys are saying, I bet shutter speed makes a big difference since I don't have a tripod. It's pretty hard to stay perfectly still for 1 or 2 seconds no matter how hard I try.

I tried to embed a photo on the forum but they are too big, I will have to re-size.
 

montsa007

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That's what I was using tonight. I was playing with shutter speed. It helps with the shakiness.

I am waiting to buy a 1020 to end all my problems limited to taking pictures, hopefully learn some photography skills.
You can also set a self timer in the Pro Shot app, also download some lenses from the store, they're good specially the blink.
Oh, and does my avatar tickle you? Am doing a survey, am giving a free leaf to everyone who answers and a free twig to everyone who doesn't ;)
 

mooreted

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I am waiting to buy a 1020 to end all my problems limited to taking pictures, hopefully learn some photography skills.
You can also set a self timer in the Pro Shot app, also download some lenses from the store, they're good specially the blink.
Oh, and does my avatar tickle you? Am doing a survey, am giving a free leaf to everyone who answers and a free twig to everyone who doesn't ;)

Your AV is kind of funny.

Thank for the help.
 

mooreted

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Those don't look bad given the lighting conditions. I take it these are not the ones from the first post? I'm not sure what I'm looking at in the second picture. Did I somehow miss Armageddon?




It was freaking GWAR. Yup, you missed Armageddon.





Sent from my RM-860_nam_usa_100 using Tapatalk
 

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