Re: AMD vs Intel
Well, while we're at it, I have a few other questions.
- In case I build my own desktop, what difference does it make what motherboard size (ATX, micro-ATV, mini-ITX,...) besides I have to choose a compatible case and too make sure the other parts fit in (GPU, fans, cable management so the air can circulate ,...)?
- What's the difference between boxed and tray with CPUs?
- Do all parts -as long as they fit together - work fine together or are there any preferances regarding certain combinations of brands (like Intel + Nvidia)? (also RAM, motherboards, ...)
- Does it matter if I have 1x8GB or 2x4GB of RAM?
- How many fans and passive-coolers do I need? And is liquid cooling better? (what about the safety of liquig cooling?)
- Is it better to have a PSU with more than enough wattage or should it have just enough (like 30-50W more than needed under peak-performance)
- How many slots, ports,... do I need on a motherboard? Is it better to have more or just as many as I'm using?
1. The motherboard size will not necessarily matter TOO much. Personally, I don't care for micro-ATX or mini-ITX. ITX will usually only have 2 RAM slots, which can be limiting long-term (though it's unlikely you'd need more than the maximum of 16 GB of RAM before you got a new board). I'm also not sure if there would be an issue putting a mini-ITX board in an ATX Mid Tower case because I've personally never looked into them. So I'd say micro-ATX would be OK (the one I initially recommended is micro-ATX), but the full ATX board will usually have some extra stuff like fewer SATA or PCIe slots (none of which would matter for you). So if the micro-ATX will save you enough to build a machine, definitely pick it.
2. As was mentioned, the first is consumer, the second is manufacturer.
3. For the most part, you'd be fine. Especially in the case with a budget build, you're unlikely to find something wacky that won't work. The main thing is to make sure that your CPU and motherboard are the same socket (in the Intel Haswell case, Socket 1150). You'd be getting 240-pin DDR3-1600 RAM, which I've yet to see unsupported by any modern motherboard. SATA is SATA for HDDs as well. The only possible concern, I think, would be if you got an aftermarket cooler and it was too big for the case, but your build wouldn't need an aftermarket cooler, so no need to worry. If you went with a micro-ATX or mini-ITX case, you might have issues with space for the GPU, so maybe watch for that.
4. It probably depends on the longevity of the PC. Also, it depends on the number of RAM slots of the board you choose. If you went with a board with only 2 RAM slots, then got the 2x4 GB kit of RAM, you won't have the option of expanding your RAM later--you'd have to buy a new kit. If you got just 1 8-GB stick, you would have the future option of buying a second, identical stick to pair with it (and make sure you're getting identical sticks if you do that). So my recommendation is if your chosen board has 2 RAM slots, go with 1x8. If it have 4 slots, go with 2x4 (because you can upgrade to 4x4, and I don't see anyone needing more than 16 GB of RAM in the next 5 years).
5. I survived with my previous build in a single-fan case (though the door was off). In fact, that thing is still running in the next room in that same setup. You don't need liquid unless you're doing a major overclock on a CPU (and you can't overclock an i3), so don't even worry about liquid. For this build, stock coolers for both the CPU and case will be fine. It depends on the airflow of the case you get, but a single-fan case can be fine for lower-end builds. Personally, I 5 fans in my current case, but I doubt you'd benefit from more than 3 on an i3 build. So 1 would probably get it done (and you can take the side door off if it doesn't), while I think anything beyond 3 would be useless.
6. Again, this is a bit about the longevity of the PC. If you just plug all of your parts into the PC Part Picker site, they'll give you an estimated wattage. I'd definitely aim a bit above that number though, because they seem to underestimate load GPU wattage, I think. But again, it's mostly based on the long-term plans of the PC. If you want to upgrade it in the future, you'll want to have enough wattage to cover upgrade (such as a GPU that uses more power), but if this isn't a long-term build, just having enough for the initial parts is fine. I'd say that 500W is the floor for a PSU, in my opinion. I am just not sure I'd trust less, but I'm probably more paranoid about that than I need to be.
7. The number of RAM slots will probably be 4 (it might be that only mini-ITX does 2 slots). The number of USB headers needed will depend on he case (my case needed 2 USB 2.0 headers and 1 USB 3.0 header). Each header will power two case ports, so that's just 50% of the USB ports = headers needed. You'll need a SATA port for the HDD and another for an optical drive (if you want it). It's really unlikely you lack motherboard slots for anything, unless you were to get a case with USB 3.0 ports on it, but got a board with no USB 3.0 header. However, you'll have to tally the number of USB devices you want connected at once (I personally have mouse, keyboard, controller, headset at all times, and will sometimes connect an external HDD and/or phone via USB, so 6 is the number of slots I wanted on the front of my case).
Sorry for getting wordy, and for possibly being confusing with any responses, haha.