ProShot camera app.

[yeewiz]

Hi RiseUpGames, I know that your time is very precious and I'm most appreciative of the awesome support you provide for this app. This isn't even your problem, but if you have a few seconds to spare, I'd appreciate any advice I can relay to the developer of Pocket File Manager. PFM is having problems rendering images shot with ProShot. Shots with the default camera app list and render just fine.

This is the PFM listing for default camera pictures. Tapping on the name renders the image:


This is the PFM listing for ProShot pictures shot in June. Note no .jpg extensions. Tapping on the name does nothing:



This is the PFM listing for ProShot pictures shot in February. Note no underscores and no .jpg extensions:


If you rather not get involved and/or don't have any spare time, please feel free to sh!tcan this request without comment. I would totally understand. OTOH, if you need more details, here's the thread: http://forums.windowscentral.com/windows-phone-apps/226343-2.htm Page 2 is the only relevant page.

Thank you again!

 

[RiseUpGames]

Hi RiseUpGames, I know that your time is very precious and I'm most appreciative of the awesome support you provide for this app. This isn't even your problem, but if you have a few seconds to spare, I'd appreciate any advice I can relay to the developer of Pocket File Manager. PFM is having problems rendering images shot with ProShot. Shots with the default camera app list and render just fine.

This is the PFM listing for default camera pictures. Tapping on the name renders the image:
View attachment 36711

This is the PFM listing for ProShot pictures shot in June. Note no .jpg extensions. Tapping on the name does nothing:
View attachment 36709


This is the PFM listing for ProShot pictures shot in February. Note no underscores and no .jpg extensions:
View attachment 36710

If you rather not get involved and/or don't have any spare time, please feel free to sh!tcan this request without comment. I would totally understand. OTOH, if you need more details, here's the thread: http://forums.windowscentral.com/windows-phone-apps/226343-2.htm Page 2 is the only relevant page.

Thank you again!

No worries, I'm here to answer any questions relating to ProShot!

First, there's a difference in the filenames (the underscores) because in regions where decimal points are used in dates instead of hyphens, it was causing people problems when trying to view images on their machines, so I forced underscores.

Second, I am not sure why PFM doesn't recognize the photos from ProShot. The pictures taken with the default Windows Phone camera don't include filetype extensions in the name of the files, so I am not sure how it is recognizing those, and not the pics from ProShot.

I wish I could offer more help :/

 

[yeewiz]

hmmm, that's weird and not good. appreciate your time and insight. thanks!

 

[Jonathan Piferrer]

Riseup... i'd like to suggest something...

- You should add live tile options.... (Proshot logo or rolling pictures, etc) cause its confusing sometimes with Windows Phone "pictures" live tile.

Regards!

 

[Davide_sd]

Hi RiseUpGames,
i'm just wandering if there is a way to "normalize" the light intensity; let say i want to take a shot of a river trying a long exposure time, so to achieve a "foggy" effect of the water surface.
At the moment, the picture will look completely white (in many cases the app crash/is not able to save because too much light hit the sensor). So i'm guessing, if it would possible to normalize/adjust the light intensity in respect with time...
...just thinking...

Anyway, i don't have much time in this period, but hope to try soon to use the Real 3D cinema glasses (the polarization effect) to achive long exposure time in a daylight shot.

 

[RiseUpGames]

Riseup... i'd like to suggest something...

- You should add live tile options.... (Proshot logo or rolling pictures, etc) cause its confusing sometimes with Windows Phone "pictures" live tile.

Regards!

There is already an option for this in the 'Settings' panel

Hi RiseUpGames,
i'm just wandering if there is a way to "normalize" the light intensity; let say i want to take a shot of a river trying a long exposure time, so to achieve a "foggy" effect of the water surface.
At the moment, the picture will look completely white (in many cases the app crash/is not able to save because too much light hit the sensor). So i'm guessing, if it would possible to normalize/adjust the light intensity in respect with time...
...just thinking...

Anyway, i don't have much time in this period, but hope to try soon to use the Real 3D cinema glasses (the polarization effect) to achive long exposure time in a daylight shot.

There's nothing that I can do to aid in the capture of long exposures during the daytime since these phones do not have adjustable apertures. I'd recommend using a pair of sunglasses as a mock ND filter instead.

 

[falconrap]

I am really sorry for this, it's a bug that I'm trying to get solved asap (something to do with saving images to the SD card).... haven't had enough time the past few weeks to address it, but now that //build/ is over I will go back to regular updates, with this bug being priority #1

Just wanted to let you know that this is happening on my Lumia 822 as well (saving photos to SD), but wanted to let you know that this behavior seemed to have started 1 or 2 updates ago. It wasn't doing this before then. I find it is hit or miss when pulling it up as a lens from the main camera app. Maybe this can help you find the bug.

 

[yeewiz]

Davide_sd, not sure I understand what you mean by "normalize". But if your picture is completely white, that means you've overexposed the shot. You've got to reduce the amount of light getting to the sensor. To do that, you've got 4 options as I see it:
1) Reduce the ISO. For example, lower from 400 to 100.
2) Increase the shutter speed. So if you're at 4 secs., go to 1 sec. Even a 1 sec shot will create that blur which I think is the same as your "foggy" effect.
3) Put plain old sunglasses in front of the lens to do the shot. RiseUpGames suggested this earlier. Based on my photography experience, polarization effect isn't the problem here, the problem is too much light. However, putting the Real 3D glasses on will do the same as sunglasses because you're cutting the amount of light.
4) Shoot the shot later in the day when there is less light or when the scene is ion the shade.

Hope this helps!

 

[Davide_sd]

Davide_sd, not sure I understand what you mean by "normalize". But if your picture is completely white, that means you've overexposed the shot. You've got to reduce the amount of light getting to the sensor. To do that, you've got 4 options as I see it:
1) Reduce the ISO. For example, lower from 400 to 100.
2) Increase the shutter speed. So if you're at 4 secs., go to 1 sec. Even a 1 sec shot will create that blur which I think is the same as your "foggy" effect.
3) Put plain old sunglasses in front of the lens to do the shot. RiseUpGames suggested this earlier. Based on my photography experience, polarization effect isn't the problem here, the problem is too much light. However, putting the Real 3D glasses on will do the same as sunglasses because you're cutting the amount of light.
4) Shoot the shot later in the day when there is less light or when the scene is ion the shade.

Hope this helps!

The nice thing about real 3d glasses is the following: if you place the two lenses one in front of the other, you are able to control the amount of light passing through them simply rotating the lenses. If the angle is exactly 90 degrees, no light should pass. =)

 

[yeewiz]

if those Real 3D lenses work like that, that's a good tool to have around, a totally variable ND filter. Let us know how it works!

 

[mics_kiss18]

Hi, I am planning to buy the application however I would like to know if my Lumia 720 is capable of 4 secs shutter speed. If not, may I know how far can I set it to? Thanks for the reply in advance.

 

[mikeymcz]

You can try the free version of the application.

 

[RiseUpGames]

^^ Yep, the trial version will let you poke around, adjust anything you want, and even preview your captured images. The 720 supports up to 4 second image capture

If you're saving photos to the SD card, there's a bug with that I'm trying to fix. It's proving to be strangely complicated, but I think I'm making progress. I'm dedicating the weekend to figuring this out. Am accepting pizza / beer donations

 

[mics_kiss18]

hahaha...im willing to buy the application thought. I tried it before however I uninstalled it i do not know why..I dont know how to use it but I will make a purchase later.

 

[mics_kiss18]

thanks! I am so happy to know the 720 is capable of 4 secs shutter speed. The low light photos posted are irresistible and I would like to capture trail lights as well. Will definitely purchase later!

 

[mics_kiss18]

oh, I would be willing to send a pizza however I am from the philippines! it will already be spoiled when it gets to you..hahaha...

 

[msualum]

I have very little to add technically about this app. I just want to endorse it and state how much I love it. I seriously do not think it should be mentioned in the same breath as other camera apps on any platform. The photos I could capture on the 4th are far past awesome. I have a 920 and was happy prior to this app. Now I'm in love. MS should bundle this app with the OS. Definitely best of breed! Thank you riseupgames - consider me a happy consumer.

 

[Nabkawe5]

You can create a great ND filter using a small piece of glass with a 3M window tint applied to it.
I have an actual ND filter but the problem it isn't dark enough.

 

[Nabkawe5]

Why an ND filter for day light photography.


This is a 2 sec shutter with ISO set to 100 and exposure set to the lowest (the slider in the middle).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Using an ND filter; Marumi Neo MC-ND8 (it saturates too)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


So when would an ND filter help me?
When you want a long shutter time shot but you have too much light in your picture to do so. (As shown by the first picture i posted)
or when you want to take a daylight picture with blur in it (not shakiness blur that is )
See in pro cameras one could adjust the Aperture;( think of it like a window where you can adjust the lighting of a room when you open it or close it in various degrees. )
This aperture is however locked in mobile phones due to size/durability issues, so the only two ways to control light would be ISO; sensors reaction to light depending on the amount of electricity you pass through the sensor you can capture more light or have the sensor read less light. (Keep in mind that the higher the ISO the higher noise you'll get in the end picture; high electricity = electric noise (OEMS remove that noise while saving the picture using either clever algorithms @Nokia or ****ty ones @almosteveryoneelse)
the other way to control is shutter time; how long should the shutter stay open and accept light into the picture you're taking
Shutter time goes hand and hand with ISO settings in mobile photography , a long shutter time would capture movement and lights and create cool low light pictures , but would also invite too much light from artificial lights or natural ones so people mostly use a low ISO with long shutter times because it creates almost noise-free pictures with the added benefits of a low light theme for the picture.

Now In day light even setting ISO to 100 with exposure slider to -2 will still give a very over exposured shot , this where ND filters come in
Its an external way to control the light going in and while on your pro camera using an ND filter would be a very expensive choice ( the right lens for the right camera) Camera phones have small camera holes so you can use any type of ND , DYI or professional with a satisfying result.

(In all photography a steady camera gets a steady result a shaky one would give a shaky result , OIS can't help in low light past 2 secs shutter time you'll move and not shake and thus the not shaking part wont matter , and even if you shaked only OIS will jerk the camera the other way to counter your shake thus unwanted movement too so it won't work either. )
Thanks for reading
@nabkawe5

 

[manofice1]

Can you adjust aperture with this app?